This is the best guide in my opinion for controlling and developing pine bonsai foliage. On deciduous trees, you can prune of all the foliage with excellent results, not on a pine, I mean, you could kill it. Any other questions on the classic bonsai species will most likely be answered here. (This pdf file and it's contents was not created by me but is a publishing of "Adams bonsai").
Sunday, 8 March 2015
Monday, 23 February 2015
pine seedlings
Hello all! This post today is going to be on growing your
own pines. This is, as you may expect, a time consuming project, but gives you,
in return, a load of experience and confidence for future projects. Best of
all, it is free.
First of all, get a pinecone. The seedlings above came from
a Scotty and I would recommend this species if you are in the UK as they are
quite the tolerable species when it comes to pines. And most of all, cheaper
than any black pines!
Put the pinecone on a radiator for about a day or two,
preferably in some sort of plastic container. If you have no central heating,
put it somewhere warm, maybe ask your neighbours or something.
After the day or two, the pinecone should have opened, if
not than wait another couple of days. Shake the seeds out and collect the
seeds. Place in a damp cloth or tissue and place in the fridge for a week or so
(stratification). Then prepare a pot, maybe even a flower pot with compost. Add
a layer of sand on top of that and push the seeds into it. They are only going
to be in the pot for a few months but give them the best possible start! After a
few months of seedling development, pot them up individually to fully develop
them into bonsai or, leave them in their individual pots for a few years and
plant them in the ground as a tree.
I started the whole procedure in mid-winter and the seedlings
seem to be doing fine. I grew the seedlings indoors in one pot until early
spring in which I potted them individually and placed them outside under a bit
of shelter.
That’s it for now, thank you for your time!
“Use your time wisely, use your money
however you wish as money you can get back, however time you cannot get back
once it is used up” - me
Monday, 26 January 2015
producing good branch structure
Hello everyone!!!!!!!
Sorry for the late post. What i am going to talk about today is how to create a good structure. Hopefully you will know about bonsai aesthetics. I am using this technique with my Chinese elms and it is doing marvelously so far. i am going to tell you the secret.
First you have to identify the movement of the tree, choose branches which complement the style and flow and keep them and discard branches or twigs which do not complement the movement. identify incorrect twigs or branches growing in the wrong direction and snip them off.
the second step is most vital, let the little guy grow, it will look messy in the first few years but it will neaten up. trees you see in the wild, young ones at that, have messy branch structures but old trees have very organised branches and twigs. In trees there is an inner and outer canopy, the inner canopy being the back up if the outer canopy fails. this inner canopy is generally a lot more neater. So, when you see the outer canopy and decide to neaten it up you would cut all the outer canopy off to leave the neater, far more structured inner canopy in place.
With my Chinese elm, the leaves at the end of each new shoot are larger than the leaves at the beginning of the new growth. This is normal before anybody asks. But, anyway, when you cut back the new shoot to 3 or 2 leaves, new twigs will emerge from the 2 or 3 leaves, below their nodes. This will result in the leaves getting smaller and an overall better structure.
Everything I have said has come from the mouth of my teacher who is with no doubt a brilliant friend as well as teacher.
Thank you.
Sorry for the late post. What i am going to talk about today is how to create a good structure. Hopefully you will know about bonsai aesthetics. I am using this technique with my Chinese elms and it is doing marvelously so far. i am going to tell you the secret.
First you have to identify the movement of the tree, choose branches which complement the style and flow and keep them and discard branches or twigs which do not complement the movement. identify incorrect twigs or branches growing in the wrong direction and snip them off.
the second step is most vital, let the little guy grow, it will look messy in the first few years but it will neaten up. trees you see in the wild, young ones at that, have messy branch structures but old trees have very organised branches and twigs. In trees there is an inner and outer canopy, the inner canopy being the back up if the outer canopy fails. this inner canopy is generally a lot more neater. So, when you see the outer canopy and decide to neaten it up you would cut all the outer canopy off to leave the neater, far more structured inner canopy in place.
With my Chinese elm, the leaves at the end of each new shoot are larger than the leaves at the beginning of the new growth. This is normal before anybody asks. But, anyway, when you cut back the new shoot to 3 or 2 leaves, new twigs will emerge from the 2 or 3 leaves, below their nodes. This will result in the leaves getting smaller and an overall better structure.
Everything I have said has come from the mouth of my teacher who is with no doubt a brilliant friend as well as teacher.
Thank you.
Wednesday, 5 November 2014
This is a beautiful art
Hello people of earth! I am here today just to inform you (you probably already know) that this is an art. Please, remember, this is an art, and there are rules to it, like bar branches and many more. But as the old school phrase goes, rules are made to be broken. What I am trying to get at is even though there are rules, and we all want to master this art of bonsai, we can brake the rules for a trees unique characteristic and not a disadvantage. But in my opinion, I think it can bring out our very artistic selves. I think that just going with it all and doing our own thing with our trees is wonderful, but most importantly fun. I just want to send a message that even though there are rules and complications, we can all have fun by just even growing a tree without styling it or even a herb or shrub. Basically, we have been blessed with a life, and spend it well, by, in my opinion, having fun, however you may have it, be it bonsai, yo yo-ing, horticulture or even just science. So please, have fun with this art in your own way. Thank you, any additions to this posts are welcome via comments.
Thursday, 16 October 2014
Care
Hi guys, this post is going to be devoted to those first timers. First of all, i would like to put these 2 websites in the spotlight. The first website being bonsai empire ( http://www.bonsaiempire.com/ ). The second being bonsai 4 me ( http://www.bonsai4me.co.uk/ ). These websites will help those of us that are beginning their journey in this beautiful art.
These little basic care tips will help those people that are starting out with bonsai:
WATERING:
This is the most important thing when you are caring for your bonsai- and plants. What you have to do if water evenly around the soil when it starts to go dry. Simple right?-well, not when it comes to actually do it on the first time. One of the things that many people get wrong, is that if you have a good free draining soil, it does not matter how much water you put in the soil, as long as water passes though the drainage holes, you are fine. Because, you see, if you really want to overwater a bonsai in good free draining soil, it does not matter how much water you pour on the soil, whether it be a bucket full or tank full, your bonsi wont get over watered. To over water your bonsai you need to water it frequently, not letting the soil dry out a bit before each watering. You HAVE to let the soil dry out a bit before you water your tree. Saying that, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Here are some methods of watering:
1) above watering: this involves watering your bonsai with, primarily, a watering can with a fine rose. Water your bonsai though roughly yet evenly on the soil untill water drains out of the drainage holes. Wait for the soil to drain anymore excess water through the drainage holes then put it back on it's stand or bench (if you have either that is).
Submersion:
This technique of watering is usually used for indoor bonsai. It involves immersing the pot in water. Leave the pot in the water until bubble cease to rise from the soil. Drainage is very important for this method. Lift the pot up slightly and move it down slightly, this assists drainage. As the water drains, because there was only water in the pot, draing water pulls in air, therefore oxygen into the soil from the soil surface.
In japan (i think) they say that it takes three years to master watering bonsai-but who knows.
FERTILIZING:
Fertilizing bonsai is basically feeding your tree. Like us, trees need water and food. There are two kinds of feed, organic and artificial. I tend to use more organic fertilizers, like "biogold" (I really would recommend to use this). Artificial fertilizers are usually in a soluble liquid form. The main thing to know about fertilizers is that they all contain an NPK value. This means the fertilizer has certain amounts of nitrogen, phosphurus and potassium. Nitrogen helps the growth of leaves, stems and branches, phosphurus helps the production of roots and potassium helps the production of fruits and flowers. In spring you might want a fertilizer that has a higher ratio of nitrogen in your fertilizer or in autumn, you might want a lesser ratio of nitrogen in your fertilizer.
Types of fertilizer and how to use them:
Organic fertilizers: organic fertilizers usually come in the form of slow release pellets. These "pellets" release nutrients slowly so there is a much lesser chance of overfeeding and they can last about 2-6 months depending on what brand. the organic fertilizer I use is biogold, as you have already heard (http://www.biogold.co.jp/english/product/bo.html). These are pellets, and can last up to 2 weeks after applied. You put the pellets around the edge of the soil and 1-2 inches apart. these will supply your tree with nutrients for around 2 months. different kinds of pellets from different brands have different methods of applying the pellets and different strengths of NPK. Also, different brands have a different amount of time until you have to place down the pellets again.
HUMIDITY:
\If your interior is rather dry, then adding "humidity trays will help improve the humidity for your plants. all you need to do is place a tray of moist gravel underneath you bonsai's pot and keep the gravel moist.
REPOTTING:
For the first timers, repotting is very daunting, many are scared of doing it, so your not the only one, on my first repot, I was shaking like a dremel drillbit! As explaining how to repot is hard, and I really don't want to risk the life of your trees, refer to either, bonsai empire or bonsai4me on how to repot ( http://www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/repotting) (http://www.bonsai4me.co.uk/Basics/Basicsrepotting3barerooting.htm).
First of all, you have to know when to repot. if you know when the tree has been repotted, then repot primarily 2 years after the last repot. if you do not know when the tree was last repotted, then check this link out: http://www.bonsai4me.co.uk/Basics/BasicsWhen%20to%20Repot%20your%20Bonsai.htm
Thank you for reading! Any comments are fine, also comment on any corrections if I did anything wrong, so i can correct them!
Thank you!
These little basic care tips will help those people that are starting out with bonsai:
WATERING:
This is the most important thing when you are caring for your bonsai- and plants. What you have to do if water evenly around the soil when it starts to go dry. Simple right?-well, not when it comes to actually do it on the first time. One of the things that many people get wrong, is that if you have a good free draining soil, it does not matter how much water you put in the soil, as long as water passes though the drainage holes, you are fine. Because, you see, if you really want to overwater a bonsai in good free draining soil, it does not matter how much water you pour on the soil, whether it be a bucket full or tank full, your bonsi wont get over watered. To over water your bonsai you need to water it frequently, not letting the soil dry out a bit before each watering. You HAVE to let the soil dry out a bit before you water your tree. Saying that, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Here are some methods of watering:
1) above watering: this involves watering your bonsai with, primarily, a watering can with a fine rose. Water your bonsai though roughly yet evenly on the soil untill water drains out of the drainage holes. Wait for the soil to drain anymore excess water through the drainage holes then put it back on it's stand or bench (if you have either that is).
Submersion:
This technique of watering is usually used for indoor bonsai. It involves immersing the pot in water. Leave the pot in the water until bubble cease to rise from the soil. Drainage is very important for this method. Lift the pot up slightly and move it down slightly, this assists drainage. As the water drains, because there was only water in the pot, draing water pulls in air, therefore oxygen into the soil from the soil surface.
In japan (i think) they say that it takes three years to master watering bonsai-but who knows.
FERTILIZING:
Fertilizing bonsai is basically feeding your tree. Like us, trees need water and food. There are two kinds of feed, organic and artificial. I tend to use more organic fertilizers, like "biogold" (I really would recommend to use this). Artificial fertilizers are usually in a soluble liquid form. The main thing to know about fertilizers is that they all contain an NPK value. This means the fertilizer has certain amounts of nitrogen, phosphurus and potassium. Nitrogen helps the growth of leaves, stems and branches, phosphurus helps the production of roots and potassium helps the production of fruits and flowers. In spring you might want a fertilizer that has a higher ratio of nitrogen in your fertilizer or in autumn, you might want a lesser ratio of nitrogen in your fertilizer.
Types of fertilizer and how to use them:
Organic fertilizers: organic fertilizers usually come in the form of slow release pellets. These "pellets" release nutrients slowly so there is a much lesser chance of overfeeding and they can last about 2-6 months depending on what brand. the organic fertilizer I use is biogold, as you have already heard (http://www.biogold.co.jp/english/product/bo.html). These are pellets, and can last up to 2 weeks after applied. You put the pellets around the edge of the soil and 1-2 inches apart. these will supply your tree with nutrients for around 2 months. different kinds of pellets from different brands have different methods of applying the pellets and different strengths of NPK. Also, different brands have a different amount of time until you have to place down the pellets again.
HUMIDITY:
\If your interior is rather dry, then adding "humidity trays will help improve the humidity for your plants. all you need to do is place a tray of moist gravel underneath you bonsai's pot and keep the gravel moist.
REPOTTING:
For the first timers, repotting is very daunting, many are scared of doing it, so your not the only one, on my first repot, I was shaking like a dremel drillbit! As explaining how to repot is hard, and I really don't want to risk the life of your trees, refer to either, bonsai empire or bonsai4me on how to repot ( http://www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/repotting) (http://www.bonsai4me.co.uk/Basics/Basicsrepotting3barerooting.htm).
First of all, you have to know when to repot. if you know when the tree has been repotted, then repot primarily 2 years after the last repot. if you do not know when the tree was last repotted, then check this link out: http://www.bonsai4me.co.uk/Basics/BasicsWhen%20to%20Repot%20your%20Bonsai.htm
Thank you for reading! Any comments are fine, also comment on any corrections if I did anything wrong, so i can correct them!
Thank you!
Monday, 13 October 2014
Bonsai?
Don't get me wrong, I think bonsai trees are beautiful. for example, this one:
But, you see, I know bonsai is about creating a small tree that captures nature at its best, along with many other things, but I never see trees in the wild or in nature that look like this. For example this is an oak tree (from bonsai empire, http://www.bonsaiempire.com/tree-species/oak), it looks beautiful, and is a painting, that lives, but I never see an oak tree look like this. When I see an oak tree, I see something like this (https://www.flickr.com/photos/50070022@N08/6363868347/ ) :
Dare I question this wonderful art, but this is one thing I do not get, it goes for many tree species, not just oaks. when I see bonsai, I see a majestic tree, but not a realistic one. please, post your thoughts that relate to my thoughts. i just want to know how people react to this thought. thank you.
But, you see, I know bonsai is about creating a small tree that captures nature at its best, along with many other things, but I never see trees in the wild or in nature that look like this. For example this is an oak tree (from bonsai empire, http://www.bonsaiempire.com/tree-species/oak), it looks beautiful, and is a painting, that lives, but I never see an oak tree look like this. When I see an oak tree, I see something like this (https://www.flickr.com/photos/50070022@N08/6363868347/ ) :
Dare I question this wonderful art, but this is one thing I do not get, it goes for many tree species, not just oaks. when I see bonsai, I see a majestic tree, but not a realistic one. please, post your thoughts that relate to my thoughts. i just want to know how people react to this thought. thank you.
Sunday, 5 October 2014
vitacat cat litter
As the title suggests, this topic is about cat litter.This cat litter is from ALDI and is made from natural clay. As it is clumping, it may be best to use it as part of a mixture (by my inference). I would not advise to use it as i have not tested it yet (has anyone?). I know many will object to using cat litter, but answer this, if it was titled as a soil (with the same ingredients as Tesco's lightweight (a quite mostly used cat litter for bonsai (good replacement for akadama))) would you not get it? I am just wondering what your ideas on this may be. i will test it in the next spring time, any thoughts welcome. It is only £1.79 for 10kg!! 
Thank you!!
I think i may be the first to test this litter brand (if i do) 
Thank you!!
I think i may be the first to test this litter brand (if i do)
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